Holistic Summer Skincare: Part One
I’ll be wearing a hat all summer long! Photo by Ashley Van Der Laan
by Fran Allen, CNP
Practicing safe summer sun care is now a borderline obsession of mine. As someone who burns way too easily, I spent a lot of my life not properly protecting my skin. This lead to excruciating sunburns and blisters all over my body and many sleepless nights doused in aloe gel. Since becoming a holistic skin therapist, have done lots of research into the ways I can best prepare and protect my skin from sun exposure. Here are a few of the things I consider when this beautiful warm weather hits and we find ourselves enjoying the beach and basking in the great outdoors.
Hydration:
As the weather gets warmer naturally we sweat more. Heat can trigger our skin to create inflammation and become dehydrated the more we sweat. This makes it more difficult for our skin to fight off UV rays. Topically it’s important to hydrate with cooling and calming products like rose water, creams and hydrosols. These naturally calm and refresh our skin and offer relief on hot days or after a sunburn. I always keep a bottle or toner stored in my fridge for exceptionally hot and unbearable days.
Keeping your body hydrated with foods, electrolytes and water will help support your skin's ability to protect itself. Make sure to eat plenty of water rich and seasonal foods like berries, melons, cucumbers and lettuce and gentle fibre from foods like overnight oats, chia and flax help to increase absorption and hydration. I love including more coconut water, smoothies, cold pressed juices and fresh fruit in my diet during the summer.
Exfoliation:
As we age, our skin’s regeneration process slows down and causes old cells to build up. This can leave our skin feeling dull, rough and dry; and can also lead to excess oil, blackheads, clogged pores and breakouts. But with proper exfoliation, you encourage fresh skin cells and allow for moisturizing products to penetrate deeply into the skin, making them more effective. This is especially important during the summer when your skin needs extra hydration and protection.
Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. This can be done manually with gentle scrubs. For the face, look for products with smooth, round granules, I prefer using something like Province Apothcary’s Exfoliator, raw honey or plain oat flour. Chemical exfoliation is another common method but can increase photosensitivity if used incorrectly.
Regular exfoliation is a must to encourage healthy, glowing skin—but limit it to once or twice per week. Over-exfoliating can cause your skin to become dry, irritated and damage our skin barrier. Keep in mind, if you have extremely sensitive skin or severe acne you may want to speak with a professional skin therapist to help you choose the best exfoliant for you.
Raw Honey is one of my favorite skin recommendations, it works well as a mask for nearly all skin types. The sugars in honey act as natural humectants and emollients that increase the hydration and reduce dryness in the skin. Raw honey contains small amounts of gluconic acid and other alpha-hydroxy acids, which gently remove dead skin cells and brighten the complexion. For best results use raw or unpasteurized honey, these contain active compounds and enzymes and give your skin the most benefit.
Protection:
Protection is essential for avoiding burns, rashes, pigmentation and heat stroke in the summer. Physical barriers like hats, long layers and breathable clothing are the best way to prevent burns and uv damage. Make sure to wear these pieces during midday when the sun is especially dangerous. I prefer to wear natural fabrics like cotton and linen that allow heat to escape from the body. They absorb moisture , dry quickly and leave you feeling cooler and more refreshed.
Both internally and topically it is important to make antioxidants a part of your routine. Foods and skincare rich in vitamin C and E help to protect our skin from the effects of stress and free radical damage caused by UV exposure. These two vitamins work synergistically together so make sure you’re getting plenty in your diet. A few of my favorite vitamin E rich foods include walnuts, sunflower seeds and Sun Potion Tocos. For vitamin C I make sure to eat lots of fresh fruits and vegetables like leafy greens, fresh wild berries and citrus.
Topically, active products rich in vitamin C and E can create something called photosensitivity. Photosensitivity is an extreme sensitivity to UV rays from the sun and other light sources. People who are photosensitive may develop skin rashes, pigmentation or burns with only limited exposure to the sun. In the summer it’s extra important to check the ingredient list of your products, look for items that can cause photosensitivity such as essential oils in the citrus family, retinol , vitamin C and certain oils pressed from citrus seeds. It’s best to use these products in the evening without putting your skin at risk. When using these products it is important to make sure to wear sun protection while in direct sunlight and reapplying sunscreen often because you may be more at risk to damage.
Hormonal shifts from pregnancy or birth control can make our skin more susceptible to sun damage and pigmentation known as melasma. When it comes to melasma, research has found that elevated levels of estrogen are associated with increased skin pigmentation. Cortisol also plays a role in increased sensitivity. As you become stressed (whether it be physical, psychological or emotional), your body produces increasing levels of the hormone cortisol to help cope with the stress. This increase in cortisol creates an imbalance in estrogen levels and these elevated estrogens in turn increases the amount of pigmentation. Stress support is a big part of managing symptoms of pigmentation and hormonal imbalances.
Sunscreen
Sunscreen works by combining organic and inorganic active ingredients. Inorganic ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium oxide reflect or scatter ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Organic ingredients like octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) or oxybenzone absorb UV radiation, dissipating it as heat. Some sunscreens protect us from the two types of damaging UV radiation:
Ultraviolet radiation is broken into three types of wavelengths:
UV-A: This is the longest wavelength and is not absorbed by the ozone. It penetrates deeper into the skin and can cause premature wrinkling, age spots and can also heighten the risk for some skin cancers
UV-B: Responsible for sunburns. It is partially blocked by the ozone layer.
UV-C: This is totally absorbed by the earth's atmosphere; we encounter it only from artificial radiation sources.
When purchasing sunscreen, the Sun Protection Factor or SPF measures how effectively the sunscreen formula limits skin exposure to UV-B rays that burn the skin. The higher the SPF the more protection the sunscreen will provide against UV-B rays. SPF does not measure UV-A. If you are looking for UV-A protection, experts recommend that you purchase a product that has broad-spectrum protection.
There are three types of sunscreen options: non-mineral, mineral and a combination. Try to select a mineral sunscreen, since non-mineral options penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream. Chemical sunscreens can disrupt hormones, trigger allergic responses and release free radicals as they break down.
Mineral sunscreens, contain zinc or titanium, which do not break down in sunlight, are not absorbed and are non-allergenic.They are also more effective at blocking UVA rays than non-mineral sunscreens. For these reasons, mineral sunscreens are generally rated as safer, though they do often contain nanoparticles, which are not tightly regulated and have not been studied for long-term impact.
Ideally, sunscreen should be applied at least 15 minutes prior to sun exposure to allow it to be fully absorbed into the skin. The daily amount of sun lotion recommended is about 1 ounce for the face, neck and décolleté. Studies show that on average, people use only 20%-50% of the recommended amount of sunscreen, diminishing the quality of protection. So be sure to slather liberally and allow time for absorption.
Some of my favorite sunscreens:
I love this Coola matte mineral sunscreen. It feels light and breathable and is easy to find in shops and online.
This DaVita sunscreen is amazing, I’ve been using it for years. It’s super light and absorbs easily into the skin. I find it at The Big Carrot in Toronto.
This Suntegrity sunscreen is pricey and difficult to find but is absolutely amazing. I love that it offers broad spectrum protection and includes lots of protective nutrients like Hyaluronic Acid, pomegranate and red algae.